Three Months in Argentina - Iguazú Falls/San Carlos de Bariloche, the Glaciers and Some Observations on Argentinians vs. Uruguayans vs. Bolivians
- ezflaw
- Feb 12, 2024
- 4 min read
First, I have to point out that the blog posts are way behind reality. We have already made a short visit to Uruguay and are presently on our journey through Bolivia. Doing my best to catch up soon.
After a couple of weeks in Buenos Aires, we flew to the northeastern point of the country to visit Iguazú Falls. This was our first flight on Aerolíneas Argentinas. We ultimately used the carrier for several flights in the country and finally from Buenos Aires to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia. I mistakenly thought this was a "regional" airline, but discovered that it is the fifth largest in South America. We did not have a single problem with any of the flights and felt very comfortable with it in all respects.
The Iguazú River forms the border in this area between Brazil and Argentina. We opted to visit the falls from the Argentina side and stayed in Puerto Iguazú. This small town is near the falls access point but also very near the border of three countries - Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.
It had rained upriver fairly steadily for weeks. Consequently, the water was a murky brown and the flooding had washed out a major section of the walkway to "La Garganta del Diablo" (the Devil's Throat). Still, the falls were raging and we had many great vantage points. We were not disappointed. The falls are massive.
A couple of videos from two of the overlooks.
As we walked the trails, we were treated to some excellent close-ups of Plush-capped Jay and managed to capture this image with an iPhone.
After a weekend in Puerto Iguazú, we flew back to Buenos Aires and then on to San Carlos de Bariloche. Bariloche is located very near the border with Chile in the southern Patagonia section of Argentina. It is an absolutely beautiful small city on the edge of lago Nahuel Huapi, a gigantic lake in the southern part of the country.
Bariloche is reminiscent of a Swiss mountain village and many houses and structures around the town are designed to enhance that feel. Snowcapped mountains are visible in all directions and many of them sport active ski slopes during the South American winter. In other seasons, the ski lifts often remain open.
From the town:
A brief catch of a tiny avalanche near the Tronador Glacier and some still views of the glacier as well.
The sky lift to Cerro Campanario and a photo of a cooperating Chimango Caracara (again an iPhone 15 Pro photo)
Argentina, especially Bariloche, shoulders a bit of an uncomfortable history given that particularly that town turned somewhat of a blind eye to ex-Nazi officers who lived there after the war. One of the more infamous was Erich Priebke, who Sam Donaldson of ABC news tracked down and interviewed in Bariloche in 1994. This ultimately led to his conviction of war crimes in Italy although he eventually appealed and was released. If you are interested in learning more about the situation, there is a link to Sam Donaldson's news special at the end of this blog post. Be warned that the video contains some very uncomfortable and graphic footage.
A few more observations about Argentina, particularly in comparison to Uruguay and Bolivia. Although we were only in Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay for a few days and just across the Río de la Plata from Buenos Aires, we quickly discovered some differences. The people we encountered did not show the troubled appearance that we encountered so often in Argentina. Right away, we could feel the stability and affluence. Recreational marijuana is legal in Uruguay. Maybe Argentina, where it is illegal, should consider a change. While Argentinians are very heavy smokers, we found it to be roughly the same in Uruguay. In both countries, people drink yerba mate much more often than coffee. When we walked through a park in the afternoon or on a weekend, we would see scores of people with mate pouches in which they would carry a thermos or two of hot water, the cup and straw they use for drinking and several different packets full of different kinds of yerba mate from sweet to bitter. In a grocery store, you can find shelves full of various types and flavors while you might find only 3-4 different types of coffee.
Only a a week into our stay in Bolivia, we also found some differences. They were noticeably happier and more friendly. In fact, we seldom encountered a person on the street who did not give us a vocal greeting or at least a smile. On the other hand, very few people smoke. During the first week when we walking through markets and up and down many streets, we saw no more than five people smoking. More info on both Uruguay and Bolivia in future posts.
Bariloche's location near the Chilean border.
After our weeklong stay in Bariloche, we rented a car and began our 30-day counterclockwise drive of nearly 5,000 kilometers (more than 3,000 miles) around the country.
Again, a caution that parts of the footage in the ABC News program at this link contain graphic and disturbing images.
You were lucky to get those iPhone photos of the Plush-capped Jay and Caracara. Also love the glacier photos. Overall, I like the way you're weaving more text into your posts. That really helps the reader get a better feel for the country. It's interesting how Argentinians tend to exhibit a "troubled appearance" by comparison with people in neighbouring countries. One is tempted to blame it on Argentina's well-publicised economic problems (250% inflation rate!) but there must be some cultural reasons as well. Keep up the good work!
I've seen Niagra Falls and glaciers in Alaska. I think the ones you saw in Argentina are more impressive, especially since you could walk out over part of the rushing falls. Bariloche is truly beautiful, but so sad about the Nazi past. I don't have the courage to watch the Sam Donaldson video. If you haven't read The House on Garibaldi Street (about the Israeli capture of Eichmann in Argentina) you should. I read it in the late 1970s and still remember parts of it quite vividly. I also remember accidentally glimpsing some concentration camp photos in a newspaper when Eichmann was tried and convicted in Israel (I was 10, and my mother and grandmother had been careful to put…
The Sam Donaldson's interview and report was riveting. I am fearful the the Orange Hemorrhoid will be reelected. That will be just a few steps from a Naziesque government. So horrifying for our kids and grandkids.
Another splendid post complete with birding photos. The waterfalls left me almost breathless. So very huge. Our kids are spending lots of weekends checking out different houses. Change is coming. Sending love from Texas.